Living in Chernobyl (Pic heavy)

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UrbanX

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OK, I’ve posted a few location reports from my extended stay in the zone, but most questions I’ve had are about the actual zone itself, getting there, radiation levels etc. So hopefully this summary report will give a bit of insight into all of that as well as general life, and exploring the zone. It’s pic heavy BTW.

Last year I was luckily enough to fulfil my persistently reoccurring dreams of living in a post apocalyptic wasteland, devoid of human life. My original report is here: http://www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/pripyat

I was in the radioactive exclusion zone for just 4 hours. But… it fundamentally changed the way I lived, the way I thought.

It was a once a lifetime trip, which I’d never repeat.

Then, 8 months later I’m offered an opportunity: to go to the zone again, but to spend a decent amount of time there.

I’d be living with the military personnel who guard the damaged reactor. They work a ‘3-4’ Shift pattern to limit their exposure time in the zone. I’d be staying long enough to span two shifts of workers…Eating with them, sleeping with them, and drinking a lot with them!

I began saving every penny I could. I spent my evenings packing, unpacking and repacking.

Checking every battery charged, every memory card blank, every lens spotless. I took two of everything; I’ve learnt “to have one of something is to have none of something. To have two of something is to have one of something”. You don’t want to be in this once-in-a- lifetime situation when your camera decides not to work, with your spare SLR body 1,700 miles away.

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I spent my evenings researching the zone and Pripyat. It became apparent that there has never been produced a single map, showing every point of interest. So I set about making one. I pooled several sources of knowledge, anecdotal evidence, and aerial photography, taking nearly 100 hours I produced this:

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Months before the visit, I submitted my passport details to the Ukrainian Government, along with all my personal details, including work address, so they could thoroughly investigate me and my life; making sure I wasn’t Bin Laden’s long lost brother. Many people think this is over-paranoia, or exaggeration on my part, yet they forget there is still 190 tonnes of radioactive material in Reactor 4 - the authorities need to vet who is allowed near it.

I had concerns about the length of time I would be spending in the zone, 16 time the normal ’extreme’ trip; so I visited Dr Buscombe at the department of Nuclear medicine. He has lectured in over 40 countries on the effects of radiation, and has spent lengthy periods in the zone. He gave me tips on living in the zone and how to avoid ingesting ‘hot’ radioactive particles. Not as easy as you think when you have to eat, drink, clean your teeth, and shower whilst breathing in the hot steam of Chernobyl water! He allays my fears, and tells me to drink plenty of the local alcohol.

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This trip did have a different feel to it.
A lot more serious than before.
Previously I had gone with a couple of mates, the journet to the airport involved stopping at the services for a fry up, all joking around, y’know…

This year I soberly kissed my loved ones goodbye on my door step, then started walking alone…
Bound for the most radioactive place on Earth.

Due to a last minute change I landed in an airport which had seemingly been set up at someone’s house. It was in the middle of a residential street, and even had a door number. They had set the ‘baggage reclaim’ up in a tent in the garden.

You think I’m joking don’t you?

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As fun as this scenario seems, I was being picked up at the airport by a government official: who was to take me straight to the zone.

Running a full 2 hours late he wasn’t happy. We sped off through Kiev into the night. After an hour of driving through the dimly lit villages surrounding Kiev, the houses stopped.
The streetlights ran out, and it was pitch black. Another full hour driving through the darkness without seeing another vehicle, another hour later we pulled up at the 30Km Checkpoint and I was allowed out to stretch my legs while they checked my paperwork.

As soon as I began to unzip my camera bag I heard that familiar bark of “NO FOTOGRAFF! NO FOTOGRAFF!” I managed to reel off a couple of dirty shots from the hip.

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The road into the zone:
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As we drove further into the zone I reminded myself that even though we were only doing around 30mph, I was probably still the fastest thing for at least 130Km in any direction.

My guide showed me where I would be sleeping, actually in Chernobyl itself; I was surprised how plush it was.

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I couldn’t sleep though.
I could feel the blood coursing through my veins, spiked with adrenaline. I couldn’t believe I was here, having a sleepover, in bloody Chernobyl.

My thoughts instinctively turned to alcohol, however due to the time of our arrival (and there being no 24 hour Tescos in Chernobyl) I was concerned that I’d have to try and sleep without a single drop of liquor. I had packed extremely light (photographic gear aside)

This was somewhat contrasted by my ’UK Fixer’ “Simon” who had a massive suitcase, which the airport had angrily stuck a ‘heavy’ sticker on. He called me into his room to show my why…

He had packed 15 litres of UK Scrumpy! (and a toilet roll, and 60 documentaries on Chernobyl…)

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I’m not a religious man, but if Gods walk among men, this is it. He properly saved that night, and I still thank him for it.

However there was something with even more alcohol in - this guy:

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I fulfilled another dream that night. Getting drunk with the Chernobyl guards.
I had bought a hipflask of Southern Comfort, which was quickly downed by the locals who had never tasted anything like it. Equally, I got hooked on this guys Ukrainian wine which was 17.5%. We drank beyond the silent Chernobyl night, to the silent Chernobyl morning.

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Everything in the Ukraine works on bribes.
I always tip my guides, its only courtesy; however my ‘top tip’ for the zone is to give your guide a large tip - BEFORE he shows you round, you might just get to see some stuff you didn’t expect to…
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Following the giving of the tip I’m led into a room to sign “The Contract”. The rules of the zone:

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“During your Chernobyl tour it is totally prohibited to:

Carry any kind of weapons;
Drink liquors or take drugs;
Have meal and smoke in the open air;
Touch any structures or vegetation;
Sit or place photo and video equipment on the ground;
Take any items outside the zone;
Violate the dress code (open-type shoes, shorts, trousers, skirts);
Stay in the exclusion zone without the officer responsible for the envoy.

…Foreign and Ukrainian nationals, who visit the exclusion zone voluntarily with any purpose, shall be aware of the fact that, while staying in the exclusion zone, they will be subject to external and internal exposure as a result of radioactive contamination of the environment (air, soil, water objects, and also buildings, transportation facilities, equipment, etc.).”

There are eight fundamental rules, we only managed to break seven of them on our first day. Must try harder. :p

It was time for breakfast, I realised I hadn’t eaten in over 24 hours, yet hadn’t been hungry, just riding on adrenaline. In Chernobyl they have functioning buildings such as the café. Except they tend to put them in buildings which are 90% abandoned.

Here’s the canteen:
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Oh sorry it’s at the other end of the room:
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The food is fantastic. They start the day with a 3 course breakfast including sausages and mash, in mascarpone sauce. Note my Ukrainian driver (Stig) in the background, more about him later…
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I find out that there are actually FOUR shops in Chernobyl. Which is a lot considering the population of workers in the zone. They are however well paid, and these shops thrive on them; selling everything from washing powder to radios, dodgy looking meats to Chernobyl themed mugs.
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101 Ways to make yourself ill in Chernobyl:
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I stock up on sugary drinks ready for a good days exploring. While my guide stops for a cigarette I wander into me middle of the main highway during morning rush hour:
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(17sec vid)
http://youtu.be/4ITl3TppZuU

Near by is the Chernobyl fire fighters memorial. It’s outside the fully functioning Chernobyl Fire station. As I shoot this a fireman in military fatigues is proudly polishing his sign, I give him a solemn nod of respect.

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One side has firefighters, one side has liquidators with Geiger’s, but hidden round the back is a man, sick from radiation, with a doctor rushing to save him. It could be seen as an obvious metaphor for the government hiding away anything relating to the effects of the radiation, but it is there if you look for it.

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As I’m about to leave, I’m shocked by the presence of another vehicle. This van screams by, ferrying in another small group of workers from Kiev.
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Part 2 of 3

The first place on my to-do list is the unfinished cooling tower of Chernobyl Reactor 5.

I’d never seen any photos of it before, only a fleeting view of it whilst driving to Reactor 4. My guide agrees to take me…that tip has already paid for itself.

It was unfinished when Reactor 4 went up, so the upper levels are still clad in scaffolding, which still occasionally sends the odd pole crashing hundreds of meters to the ground. The acoustics in there were mental, and birds of prey circled around inside, riding the thermals. It was also the most (consistently) radioactive place I visited.

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A full report can be found here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/reactor

Leaving the reactor, our vehicle was chased by a pack of wild dogs; it was scary how long they stayed with us, obviously starving for a nice meaty tourist. My guide asked where I would like to visit next. I had never seen any photographs of the actual fire station in Pripyat, which was used before during and after the disaster, so we began heading there.

There was a strange feel to the place as some rooms had only been abandoned for a decade, where others had lain derelict for a quarter of a century. What was consistent though is the amount of empty vodka bottles. The figertfighters were infamously given copious amounts of vodka before going to ‘liquidate’.

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I also found a route up the side of their tower, so had to go for a quick climb, and spectacular view of Reactor 4.

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The full firestation report can be found here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/firestation

Opposite the firestation was a garage / rooftop scrap yard: Full report here: www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/scrap

Pripyat was a young city, with the average age being just 26. This figure is aided by the number of children that lived there. They were served by 15 kindergartens, and 5 high schools. I knew the kindergarten would be emotional so I decided to have a ‘warm up’ in the local high school.
And emotional it was; I spent ages leafing through ‘topic books’ just like I used to make at school.

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I was surprised to find crate upon crate of gas masks in the roof space:

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But nothing prepared me for a carpet of 50,000 gasmasks in the canteen:
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Read the full report here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/school

I’d heard a rumour that in downtown Pripyat was a creepy laboratory, used for storing and testing radioactive samples. Not only that but also that it was set in an old abandoned kindergarten…Well, that’s all the folkloric encouragement I need! So we set off to find it.

I wasn’t disappointed. Signs of it’s previous incarnation were everywhere, giving it a creepy feel.

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The building was chosen for the study, and storage of radioactive soil samples following the disaster, because of its size and proximity to the massive Pripyat greenhouses.

Samples were everywhere. One couldn’t help but have to walk across them, occasionally popping underfoot, spilling their black radioactive powdery contents onto the floor.

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Samples were everywhere, ranging from soil to straw, to flesh. Some were labelled, most were not. They dated up until around 1996, a full decade after the disaster.

Soil:
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Flesh:
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Full report can be read here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/lab


It was a beautiful Saturday night in Chernobyl town. The sun was shining, but not too hot, and I’ve managed to buy myself a crate of the 17.5% wine that the guard was previously drinking. After a fantastic dinner with the workers (meaty pancakes) Whilst sat in the car park of the workers accommodation with a half pint tumbler of wine. It became apparent how abundant wildlife is in the zone; I was joined by radioactive hedgehogs, lizards, and of course loads of cats, which flock to still be around the few humans that inhabit the zone for food, and affection.
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If you think of the longevity of cats, it is entirely possible that it would have been these cats’ parents that were caught up in the disaster. It would have certainly have been within his grandparents generation.

I believe you can genuinely see the sadness in his eyes.
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Not all of the wildlife is as pleasant. Large beetles swarm across the floor, and massive mosquitoes buzz loudly around my ears. I’m wearing the strongest replant available, and yet I suffer no less than 14 caesium-tastic stings from this fella before I give in, and take the drinking indoors.
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There was no music, no TV: that suited us just fine. We just sat around drinking, and exchanging old explorers tales. Charlie had bought a coffee table book of luxury bunkers, and we had a good old fashioned story time.
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The strong wine was hitting the spot, and with only half pint tumblers available I was soon halfway down my second bottle.
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It’s so surreal having a sleepover in Chernobyl.
You have to pinch yourself to reassure yourself that it’s not all a weird dream.
I’m a seasoned traveller and have got drunk in weird places all over the world, but non as weird as this: sat on the floor of the most infamous, radioactive place on Earth.

The surrealism was shattered by one of our number who was determined to provide himself that British home comfort of a hot cup of tea. So much so that even here, he’d managed to haggle himself a kettle element and a Chernobyl branded mug and tea bag. Proudly boiling a mug of Chernobyl’s finest Caesium 137 enriched tap water into a cup of steaming Yorkshire Tea.
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As the sun rose over the cooling lakes there was just four of us left awake in the Chernobyl administration. Feeling in need of my own home comfort: I messaged a photograph of this scene 1,700 miles across Europe to my wife. The reply came almost instantly “Have you been taken hostage somewhere?”

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I was rudely awoken an hour later by the familiar Ukrainian shouting of my guide. I can’t begin to describe how rough I felt. The natural instinct of opening my mouth under a running tap and taking in all of the water I could manage, had to be quashed as I remembered where I was.

I managed to find some bottled water just in time for my guide to declare that it was indeed Sunday (as it had been for nearly six hours) therefore we needed to attend church!

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Chernobyl Church is actually 270 years old. It’s makes you realise how easy it is to forget that Chernobyls history begins long before 1986; centuries of history.

I feel honoured that my guide has chosen to bring me here, it shown a level of trust. I’m lucky enough to witness a full on Russian Orthodox ceremony, with beautiful chanting, and incense.

Everyone was of course still in military fatigues, with the exception of the priest. When it comes to the actual prayer I decide to leave the locals to it and as a mark of respect I silently slip away.

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I notice there is a large funnel sticking up from a vehicle in the undergrowth near by. Closer investigation reveals that it’s an amphibious tank! As I wander through the undergrowth more military vehicles present themselves. Each surrounded by numerous radiation warning signs, but after some careful testing with the Geigers I realise that these are almost entirely for show.

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I mooch round for a good half hour before I notice that people are beginning to pour out of the church. I managed to slip back into the throng near my guide and congratulate the priest on a wonderful service.

Full report (with loads of military vehicles) can be read at
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/church

I decide to blast this hangover out properly with a bit of rooftopping. I ask my guide to take to me the tallest building in Pripyat, and he obliges. After passing through the 10km check point, and the city checkpoint we arrive at the base of a 16 storey tower block. He explains that it is still forbidden to enter the buildings in Pripyat, so we mustn’t be seen. He agrees to take us to the top floor but not the roof as we could be spotted by workers who have not yet received a “generous tip“.

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A gruelling 16 storey climb later, and we arrive at a flat on the top floor, and make our way to the balcony. The view is spectacular. Although this isn’t my first visit to Pripyat, I’ve never been lucky enough to view it’s vastness all at once.

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On the horizon looms the iconic Reactor 4, and Duga 3A Russian radar aerial; some kilometre long and half a kilometre high:

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After half an hour of taking in the view, we deicide it’s time to leave. The whole time we were exploring the flat the guide was stood with his back against an open utility cupboard, which had traces of daylight streaming from it.

It must be the way to roof….

…Just as he was declaring that it was time to go, a fellow traveller “Charlie” gave me a look, before flicking his eyes quickly towards the cupboard then upwards before giving me a wink…

We both knew what we had to do.

I fiddled more with my camera, pretending to make multiple shots of a door. The guide tutted and started to walk away. The two of us bundled for the cupboard, and almost sprint-ran up the ladder to the roof.

Only 20ft higher than where we just were, the forbidden view was so much better - it was 360 degrees.

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I saw a telegraph pole at the edge of the parapet, and I knew I had to get that slight bit higher. I stood a few feet from the pole, and threw myself off the 16th storey towards the horizon. I hit the pole, shimmied up, and clung on for a few seconds.

After a while the pole started to shift, grinding in its fixings, lurching forward over the edge; I decided to climb down.

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I chilled at the edge for a minute or so, before realising I needed to get to ground just before my guide did. So I flung myself down each flight of stairs, taking half flights in one leap. I caught up with my guide, just as he was getting to ground level, I was out of breath and grinning like an idiot.

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The full rooftopping report can be viewed here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/rooftopping

The fun and hi-jinks were about to end.
 
Part 3 of 3

The next explore would be one of Pripyats Kindergartens “Cheb Urasaka”.

As I previously mentioned, Pripyats population was very young with the average age being just 26. With so many young families it was necessary to build no fewer than 15 Kindergartens. I knew this one was going to be pretty tough on the emotions and I’d been building it up in my head for months.

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Since I’ve been staying in the zone I’ve been with 15 other travellers, all guys. So there was a fair amount of rowdiness, and bravado going on.

Not here.

…This was different.

You all know what it’s like exploring in a group; when you see each other you’re normally like “You’ve gotta see in here” or “did you find the piano?”

Not here. We were silent.

When we occasionally passed in corridors we were silent. Some guys acknowledged my presence with a subtle nod, most guys couldn’t even lift their eyes to make eye contact.

I knew there’d be dolls around the place, I’d seen photos before, and I know they’re just plastic and nylon. But when you actually see them, mimicking the younger population, and you see how many of them there are, their faces seared:

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You start to think back to your own experiences and memories. I know how hard it is for a child to leave a loved toy behind; sometimes it’s their best friend, their world.

I can’t imagine how those toddlers felt to be evacuated without being able to go back for their friend.

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Even the gas masks I found were in toddler size.

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I found another doll which was different to any I’d seen here before.

It was at least three times the size - the size of an actual toddler. Face down in the dust at my feet. I grabbed its arm to roll it over, but it was heavy, a dead weight. It seemed limp and lifeless, heavy, not hollow like a doll normally is.

The mechanism which closes the dolls eyes when it’s laid horizontally must have been slightly dusty;
When I rolled the doll over, it looked me square in the eyes for a couple of seconds, before closing them by herself. To this day it’s still the single image from this trip which I remember before I sleep.

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I made my way out of the staff area, and realise I haven’t seen or heard anyone else in at 20 minutes. I’m not sure how many children attended this Kindergarten, but it was a similar size to my secondary school, which had 900 students.

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(21 sec video) http://youtu.be/Wu6-rTbpHqg

I pass one last dormitory on my way out. I look through the door but decide I’ve seen enough, and don’t enter.

The atmosphere on the bus after we visited here was completely different to any other time. No one shared photos or anecdotes, we all just sat, 16 guys, heads hung in complete silence.

I’d really recommend reading the full report here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/kindergarten

My next explore was a repeat visit to the Palace of Culture. I’m kind of reluctant to post it at all, as everyone that visits Pripyat visits the palace, and it’s all been seen before… or so I thought.

Sneaking away from my guide for a few minutes I see a small door leading underground, I’ve just gotta squeeze through it, see what’s down there. I come to a room, over 100m long, in pitch darkness. I walk in confusion towards the far end, and see 5 shadowy human figures in the darkness… it turns out they are Police style shooting targets! It’s a gun range! After mentioning this find later on to my guide he is astounded, and has never seen or heard of it before. It makes me realise what exploring is about, seeing the unseen, especially if it’s been there for years unnoticed, untouched.

I manage to sneak away from him again, and know exactly where I’m going. “To the roof!” I silently declare in my head. I head out across a truss beam over a swimming pool, no handed (both hands on my camera filming my feet) testing out my balance.

(20 sec vid) http://youtu.be/gXv9EouXz94

I arrive at the roof, and the iconic sign. I look out over the main square and wonder what it would have looked like in the 70’s (Note the Ferris wheel, a different one than what is there now, but same location)

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Sign from the reverse (on the roof)
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Full report can be read here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/palace

Pripyat was a prosperous town. The average salary there was a lot higher than the rest of the Ukraine. Leisure activities were a lot more available than most cities of that size. You just have to look at Pripyat’s 3 stadiums, multiple restaurants, hotels, car accessory shops to realise that.

Here is the fantastic ‘Café Pripyat’ in the late 70’s:
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Here it is in 2011:
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Inside it is full of fantastic stained glass:
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The stained glass is actually coloured glass laid end on! They mustn’t have liked their fingers:
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Oh I forgot to mention previously that our driver (the Stig’s Ukrainian brother) always carried a couple of kitchen knives and a telescopic sight whenever we were outside of the vehicle. I found this hilarious, imagining him poking a violent looter with amazing accuracy. It turns out the sight was just a makeshift telescope, and he was watching our back for dangerous animals.

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Full Café report can be found at
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/cafe

The “Yaniv” train station:
Roughly half a kilometre west of the 'Bridge of Death' is Yaniv railway station.
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This is out of the city checkpoint, but access to this area is still a bit clandestine. It has to be granted by special permission of the ChernobylInterinform, I have no idea why though. Fortunately, I was lucky enough to be given permission to explore the yard.
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Yaniv station was the vital passenger pickup point for those arriving by train into Pripyat in the hours after the disaster. People who arrived here during this time were moved directly from the trains onto buses and sent right back out of the area to limit their contamination.

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Yaniv is an interesting area to explore on foot. Entry to the station building is now sealed off and used for storage, but the railway lines and what's left of the platform are still accessible. There are many train cars still sitting around on and off the tracks, and most in a very bad way. One of the lines is still in use. I believe there is approximately one train a month ferrying in vital building materials for the new sarcophagus, which is now underway.
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Some of the huts, and carriages are still being lived in by labourers working in the zone:
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I’m not that into trains, but a lot of people are, so the full report is here:
www.urbanxphotography.co.uk/trains

Its 33 degrees and I’m really in need of a drink, so I leisurely make my way back to Chernobyl.

I’ll let you into something personal now. I’m not a fan of routine…Except on a Sunday.
I work silly hours, so the only time I get to spend time in the kitchen is on a Sunday. My Favourite rock show is on the radio on a Sunday, so I always crank that up, open a bottle of red and spend the afternoon cooking curry. It’s my favourite meal of the week.

I cannot impart the joy I felt when I was sat in the Chernobyl workers canteen, on a Sunday night, thousands of miles from home, alone, not being able to understand a word people around me were saying… when they bought me out a ‘Chernobyl Curry’ and an ice cold bottle of Staropramen.

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Everyone around me thought my eyes were watering through the heat of the curry, but they were tears of joy…

I wandered into ‘town’ to find the final shop which I hadn’t been into yet, and stocked up on Inkerman wine, which I’ve had before and longed for again.
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The shop was actually situated in the Chernobyl bus station. Which despite its derelict appearance was still in use to ferry workers to and from Kiev. Tonight on a Sunday night though, it was deserted:
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The only exception was a guard who came in just after me, and proceeded to down a bottle of vodka, quicker than I could drink my water.
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One of the more interesting finds at the shop is the Ukraine’s answer to anti-narcotics campaigning. A cannabis lolly, with a crossed out hypodermic needle on it.
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I’m getting quite used to life in the zone now. I’ve swapped my half pint tumbler for a Chernobyl branded mug.
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The drunk guard from a few nights ago is hanging out on the Government Agency HQ steps with a couple of women, whom I quiz him about. He explains that one of them is his wife who has come here “To give him directions for life”. But never explains who the other woman is.
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I have loved my time in the zone, but alas other people must also visit here and there are only 16 beds. So my time to leave has come for now. I undergo several full body scans for radiation at the Interinform HQ. (Note: some of the afore mentioned bites on my arm)
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I have my clothing scanned separately, and all is deemed safe enough to leave the zone. I am driven to the 30Km military checkpoint where I am to undergo another full body scan. This machine is alto fitted with a locking gate which will only open, letting you out of the zone if you aren’t glowing. The 3 second wait is excruciating.

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I eventually hear a beep and push on the gate, but it doesn’t open…

I hear another beep and try again, it doesn’t budge.
“Why isn’t it opening?”
“What’s happening? “
“Why isn’t it opening?”
“What’s wrong with me?”
My guard lets out a proper belly laugh, and I notice he’s holding it shut.

We drive back to Kiev, and grab a pint. My fellow travellers let me choose the venue, and I find a bar fittingly on a rooftop. Before heading back to the airport.

My fellow explorers get on the plane back to Luton.

Not me though...

I sit completely alone in the airport bar with one more cold beer… which I finish before flagging down a taxi heading back into the heart of the Ukraine…

I’m not ready to go home yet…

I’m heading back into the Ukraine…
 
Oh my lord - that white cat looks like mine...he genuinely looks so sad doesnt he...
great pics as per usual matey
:)
 
I am truly lost for words, and I am in awe of your story, it is truly epic. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with everybody, I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed reading it mate.

Ian
 
Wow what a report! I realy enjoyed the read and the pictures are amazing!!

Looks like an amazing place!!

Thanks for write up and brilliant pictures!!
 
Thank you for that Urban X, you have given me an insite to a place I will never go to and made me feel as though I had been there. I have enjoyed every thread you have submitted. :)
 
Stunning report and write-up UrbanX, Fabulous photo's as per usual, Ive been glued to this for the past hour.
Thankyou so much to a true insight of your time you have spent there.
 
Really fantastic report!

Shows how crazy your trip was.

Is nice to also hear about things past the actual explore & more about how it was to stay there.

Excellent!
 
That was just fantastic, It wasn't too long, it was too short. I wanted it to go on forever mate, the story was great and the photography as usual is stunning.

Favorite of mine has to be the silhouette of the church with the sun behind the cross. Brilliant!!!

:mrgreen:
 
Great story and pics.must have been fantastic to visit the area.A once in a lifetime experience.
 
Absolutely stunning report UX.

Brilliant that you:

  1. Provided a storyline prior to each picture (it felt like we were alongside you in the explore).
  2. Provided a deeper explore option to your site for those that needed to get in deeper (like me)
  3. Even gave links to video, long enough to get a view of what it was like (liked the early road shot where all you hear was white noise)

This is what DP was made for. Superb. Where did the last 2 hours go?
 
great to see its been posted at last fella, great story and pics of a wicked trip :mrgreen:

as for long threads lol, i am sure i will share my special one on here one day but as u said its worth the read and time spent on threads like to show the whole story ;)
 
What can I say that hasn't already been said? It's just one of the most interesting reports I've ever read and thoroughly enjoyed it. Thanks for taking the time it must have taken to compile all that, Urb. Superb stuff. :)
 

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