The sprawling structure seems out of place in its lonely splendour amidst the countryside flanking the quiet A.92 Dundee to Arbroath Rd.
The large sign popping up between the greenery announcing the Courtyard restaurant gives no indication of this building’s place in the area’s history.
Constructed with the intention of serving passing 19th century travellers, it never fulfilled its original purpose. It fell victim to modern modes of transport: the Dundee to Arbroath railway line was erected the same year. Time may wait for no man, but the Courtyard stood the test of time, and has come into its own since being restored to its former glory in 1990.
Nearly a century and half later the Courtyard is the ideal stopping off point for both locals and tourists passing by on their way to Aberdeen, Royal Deeside and the North.
The old coachhouse, tack room and part of the stables have been converted into the ‘Courtyard’. It opened as a coffee house and licensed restaurant, retaining its old world charm while serving the best of local fare.
The low entranceway testifies to the small stature of our Scottish ancestors, and transports you into this tribute to bygone times of comfort and friendliness. A small Scotty dog barks us a welcome and the friendly owner sticks her head round from the open kitchen-cum-reception to greet her latest guests.
We’re led into the dining area. All around the room are large windows through which light floods in, highlighting the original stone walls. But you can tell this would be a comfortable place in the winter, with the genuine wood burning stove to keep the restaurant at a cosy temperature.
The lunch menu offers a selection likely to appeal to any nourishment needs. For the customer seeking a quick travelling stop-off there are numerous light bites to choose from - whether it be a chicken sandwich, a baked potato or some freshly made soup.
On the other hand, if you fancy yourself as a food connoisseur, and rushing some sustenance down sounds sacrilegious, there’s the option to sit back, relax and look forward to food fit for a kingly traveller.
When eating out the last thing one expects to be offered is shop bought food. However, a lot of establishments feel that serving packet pat� is acceptable. The devil on my shoulder urged me to pick the pat� and test this restaurant which has already scored so highly on the presentation, atmosphere and friendliness fronts.
When the pat� arrives my other shoulder’s angel is mocking that mischievous devil. This is sublime chicken liver pat� (�3.50), and most certainly homemade. But it’s the small touches that make the difference. Small triangles of toast are thoughtfully wrapped in napkins within the wicker basket to ensure the toast stays warm until the pat�’s polished off.
One problem. Pat� as rich as this puts pressure on the stomach, and I definitely have my eye on the delicious looking sticky toffee pudding (�2.75). But before I come to a sweet ending, there’s a rather tasty looking lasagne (�6.75) in the hands of the woman making her way towards me.
Living up to initial impressions, it tasted even better than it looked. The sauce was rich and meaty, the pasta baked to perfection, and there was even fresh parmesan to accompany – something a lot of non-Italian restaurants seem to forget.
The only downside was the baked potato on the side, which was microwaved rather than oven cooked. But, to be fair, the lasagne was meant to be served with salad, and it was only because the owners are flexible with the menu that I’d even received my daily dose of potatoes.
Now, to tell the truth, I’m pretty full by this point. But that pudding cannot be ignored, especially by a self-proclaimed sticky toffee pudding expert. It is after my first taste of the pudding that I fall irrevocably in love with the Courtyard. Anyone who can make a dessert taste so good deserves my eternal devotion. There’s no doubt I’ll be back. There’s still all that home baking, which can be bought to takeaway, still to try.
- Jacqueline O'Sullivan
