HOO SAILING BARGE GRAVEYARD - JANUARY 2023

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I have a special interest in exploring shipwrecks and in particular, clusters of wrecks, or “ship graveyards”. I have managed to find abut 15 of these locations across the UK that I am slowly working my way through when I get a chance. I have already written up two of these visits on this site at Fort Hoo and Lake Lothing.

This visit was to what is locally referred to as the “Hoo Sailing Barge Graveyard” by Port Werburgh on the north bank of the River Medway. There are somewhere between 30 and 40 wrecks here of different shapes and sizes, some still above the high tide line and some nearly completely lost to the mud with just the odd beam sticking up. At low tide, these wrecks could be accessed by foot, but it’s far more fun to kayak around over and inside them. The picture below is a still taken from some drone footage I found on the internet and shows the wrecks at about the mid tide.



The wrecks are a mix of WW2 concrete barges (bottom left), fishing vessels (bottom right), a floating drydock (bottom centre), small pleasure and commercial crafts (middle) and most interestingly, a collection of 9 Thames Barges (across the top), of which 3 are recorded to have been involved in the Dunkirk evacuations.

This one has been on my list for years so one very cold winters morning I inflated my sea kayak and launched into the River Medway about 5km away from the site.

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After about an hour of paddling I came across a line of sunken concrete barges along the edge of Hoo island, as shown below, with a huge murmuration of birds in the background. It was a very beautiful sight seeing thousands of birds suddenly rise up out of the marshes en masse.

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I continued on to the main wrecks which took a further 15 mins. The first hull I could see were two WW2 concrete barges (on the left below), one of which was actually still floating. In the middle of the picture below, the top of a sunken “floating” dry dock can be seen, with two smaller boats inside, then a large wooden huller fishing vessel on the right.
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The most famous wreck here is the Ena which is a Thames Barge built in Harwich in 1906, featured in both world wars, is on the National Register of Historic Ships and even featured on the TV on an episode of “Salvage Squad”. In her day she was a magnificent looking vessel (see below).
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Ena served in the First World War, delivering supplies across the Channel to troops in France. Her shallow draught allowed her to operate in waters too shallow for the enemy U-boats. In the Second World War, Ena was one of 13 Thames sailing barges that made the crossing as part of the Dunkirk Evacuation (the little ships).

After landing on the beaches of Dunkirk, her crew abandoned her as the Germans closed in and the ship was beached. However, she was found by Lt Colonel W G Mc Kay and 36 men of the 19th Field Regiment, who refloated her, and despite having no sailing experience between the, sailed her back to Kent. When the owner got the barge back he noted "They had taken the sweeps, mooring lines, fenders and even my false teeth which I had left behind in a glass of water by my bunk! You can't trust these men of Kent!"

After the war she continued to operate as a barge before being sold into private ownership. In 2001 she went through a significant restoration (filmed as part of Salvage Squad) but has since gone into decline. In 2016 she sank at her moorings on the Medway and shortly after she was moved to the edge of the marsh were she remains, slowly sinking further into the mud. Sadly, despite many attempts to raise funding to restore this vessel, it seems likely that this piece of history will just be left to rot into the mud.

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There are 8 Thames Barges hulked here, not including the Ena above. The others are the Sailing Barge (SB) Alan, Remercie, Spinaway C, Ethel Ada, Adriatic, Felix, Scotsman and Dannebrog. In the picture below of the Ena, the wreck of the Dannebrog (middle) and I believe Spinaway C (left).
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The SB Dannebrog was built at Harwich in 1901 and was a working barge until the mid 70s, after which she was used as accommodation in St Katherine’s Dock. She was sold in 1992 for restoration at Hoo which does not appear to have gone to plan. She is pictured below left in happier times. The SB Spinaway C was at one time one of the last Ipswich barges still working. She was built in Ipswich in 1899, winning the 1963 Thames barge race. She was converted into a yacht in 1967 and at a later date into living accommodation before ending up buried deep in the mud, barely visible above the water. She is pictured in her glory below right. The Spinaway C is also listed on the register of “little ships” (i.e. those involved in the evacuation of Dunkirk) albeit I have not been able to determine what role she played.
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The next barge I came across was the SB Felix, easily identifiable by her name still clearly legible on the bow above the waterline (see below).
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The SB Felix was built in 1893 in Harwich, Suffolk. Like many other Thames barges she later became a motor barge and was sold out of trade in 1972 and became a yacht barge. The photo below shows how she used to look.
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Next to the Felix were three other barges, SB Alan (I think), the Ethel Ada and the Remercie. All three of these were much lower in the water with either only the odd bits sticking above the high tide.
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I have not been able to find out any information on the history of these three vessels other than that the SB Alan is also listed on the register of “little ships” (i.e. those involved in the evacuation of Dunkirk) albeit I have not been able to determine what role she played. Below are photos of the Ethel Ada (left) and Remercie (right) in action.
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Although my research shows that the SB Adriatic is also located here, I did not see any physical trace of her, therefore I assume she was under the water or buried in the mud. The final of the thames barges is the Scotsman, immediately behind the sunken fishing boat in the foreground. If you zoom in you can just make out the name in the centre of the picture.
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The SB Scotsman was built at Sittingbourne in 1899, became a motor barge in 1953 and was later converted into a houseboat at Faversham Creek. It was later moved to Hoo for restoration purposes. The picture below shows it heavily laden (sitting low in the water) on the River Thames at Teddington in the 1920s
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Moving back around the other wrecks, there are a number of larger wooden fishing vessels, pleasure cruisers and barges in various stages of falling apart, though I was unable to read any of the names of these.
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Another fishing boat below, mounted on top of what looks like a small pleasure cruiser and barge. I found the rather exposed toilet location on the foredeck rather amusing (bottom right)
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After poking around the wrecks for a while I headed over to the marina just to the west of the graveyard as I could see what looked like a sunken tug. On closed inspection (below) I found this was indeed the case, a rather nice looking Tyne Tug called Marsden that despite a significant recent renovation had sunk.

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Some research afterwards showed that it was built in 1956 in Appledore, Devon, and spent 30 years working as a harbour tug up in Newcastle (see below) followed by a further 15 years on the River Medway before being converted into houseboat in 2002.
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I found an advert online from 2 years ago showing the ship as having been sold at £110,000 as a 4 bed houseboat – the photos look very nice inside, however I suspect this has all been ruined now.
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On the long paddle back to the car I made a small detour into Fort Darnet which can be paddled into and around as it is flooded to a depth of approximately 2m. I last went here a couple of years back (see report) and it is still beautifully untouched and wonderfully intact.
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Crossing over Pinup Reach towards Fort Hoo, I swung by the shipwreck graveyard there (see below). I had visited this previously in May 2021 and was surprised at how much some of the wrecks had deteriorated significantly since my last visit.
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Next to Fort Hoo, is moored a massive abandoned accommodation barge. This had previously been moored in the centre of Rochester for about the last 8 years (and has been covered on here by someone else) but was finally moved in September 2021, with a plan to refit and be “transformed into 400 “luxury” holiday apartments in Gibraltar by a mystery businessman”. Clearly this plan has gone awry as the ship has abandoned on the island now for 15 months and since then it has been absolutely trashed inside (see below).
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I saw in the news a few days after my visit that this leviathan had broken free of its moorings in a strong gale and had drifted for about 5km before getting stuck deep in the marshes on the south side of the river.

Finally, I came across an old houseboat that had been abandoned on Hoo Island. Research shows that it was built in either 1944 in Hythe or in 1960s and named Quiberon, and served as family home for many years. It was abandoned on Hoo Island in October 2021 (photo below taken at the time).
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The following 14 months have not been kind, the hull now is holed in a number of places and is rapidly falling apart (below). Sadly, it is becoming a much more common sight to see these domestic vessels being abandoned and left to rot and judging by the state of this wreck, it is unlikely that this will ever float again.
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All in all, it was a very wet, cold and windy 3 hours of paddling, covering about 10km in total, but very much worth it and thoroughly enjoyable.
 

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These are really interesting. Thanks for the information.
 
Nice one mate, you took some great photos and from the look at risk. Seems a shame such magnificent boats are just left to rot like that
 
Blackie. Is this a repost because I found a similar posting elsewhere but the pictures are missing.
https://www.derelictplaces.co.uk/threads/shipwrecks-on-hoo-island-river-medway-may-2021.38236/
Hi - yeah its not a repost as they are two seprate sites located about 1km away from each other, one on the north shore of the medway (this report) and one on Hoo island (the previous report from May 2021) - a while back I tried to and failed to fix the pictures in previous post, at somepoint I need to try and fix those photos again as they were quite good (in my humble irrelevent opinion)
 
Nice one mate, you took some great photos and from the look at risk. Seems a shame such magnificent boats are just left to rot like that
Thanks, it is a massive shame that such things are left to rot but on the other hand, it gives me something fun to explore.

In terms of risk, I should add that trips like this shouldnt be done by people who dont know what they are doing and arent experienced on the water, a lot of planning goes in to make sure the timings of the tides and weather are right, and the correct kit always needs to be taken!
 
Thanks, it is a massive shame that such things are left to rot but on the other hand, it gives me something fun to explore.

In terms of risk, I should add that trips like this shouldnt be done by people who dont know what they are doing and arent experienced on the water, a lot of planning goes in to make sure the timings of the tides and weather are right, and the correct kit always needs to be taken!
Thank you for that, of particular interest to me as I lived on a converted canal boat that was built in 1898 and still survives being of wrought iron construction. She was a home for me and my family ( all grown up now ) for almost 40 years and is happily retired to the Black Country Museum, Her registration is BCN16473. Age & mobility issues meant that it became difficult for me to continue to live aboard but I can't honestly say that living in a bungalow is quite as fulfilling!
 
Love this, smashing photos. We used to keep our narrowboat in Sharpness so regularly walked around Purton Hulks, so atmospheric — have you been there? PURTON HULKS
 
Thank you for that, of particular interest to me as I lived on a converted canal boat that was built in 1898 and still survives being of wrought iron construction. She was a home for me and my family ( all grown up now ) for almost 40 years and is happily retired to the Black Country Museum, Her registration is BCN16473. Age & mobility issues meant that it became difficult for me to continue to live aboard but I can't honestly say that living in a bungalow is quite as fulfilling!
Will look out for her.
 
Will look out for her.
Thanks, only the hull there now, superstructure removed. She is one of six built for FMC as a day boat, a bit better than most,stronger and with more sheer. I installed an Armstrng Siddeley Merganser which was origiinally used to power a 4" water pump used in the restoration of the South Stratford Canal. andi it served me well.
Happy days!

Incidentally, some student friends tied in Lapworth in 1969 owne a narrow boat named Sadlers Wells!
 
Thanks, only the hull there now, superstructure removed. She is one of six built for FMC as a day boat, a bit better than most,stronger and with more sheer. I installed an Armstrng Siddeley Merganser which was origiinally used to power a 4" water pump used in the restoration of the South Stratford Canal. andi it served me well.
Happy days!

Incidentally, some student friends tied in Lapworth in 1969 owne a narrow boat named Sadlers Wells!
Interesting! It's not on the Boat Listing pages now. I kept my previous married name of Wells when I married a Sadler, it was too good a combination to lose as we both play. Our boat is named Thomazina, but we have 'Sadler Wells and Company' painted on it.
 
Great stuff. I share your interest as I have two yachts, one on the Deben at Martlesham Creek and one at Pin Mill on the Orwell. I am always sniffing around derelicts - afloat or ashore.
Many thanks for a great job.

Pedant mode: Harwich is in Essex, not Suffolk!
 
Great stuff. I share your interest as I have two yachts, one on the Deben at Martlesham Creek and one at Pin Mill on the Orwell. I am always sniffing around derelicts - afloat or ashore.
Many thanks for a great job.

Pedant mode: Harwich is in Essex, not Suffolk!
The wrecks at Pin mill are on my to do list, havent been there is ages but they are really beautiful (if you like that kind of thing)

As for your "pedantry" it is well deserved - despite being born and raised in Suffolk (Lowestoft) I always thought that Harwich was Suffolk not Essex until now- Silly me!!
 
Interesting! It's not on the Boat Listing pages now. I kept my previous married name of Wells when I married a Sadler, it was too good a combination to lose as we both play. Our boat is named Thomazina, but we have 'Sadler Wells and Company' painted on it.
The dance theatre is Sadler's Wells - with the apostrophe, and named after Richard Sadler who found health-giving water in the area. Let's hope it did not induce St Vitus's Dance! St Vitus was the patron saint of dancers.
 
Have you heard of the concrete barges in Lymm? There is 5 visible after being left there after the war when metal was in high demand. Just to the right of the Thelwall viaduct and off the Manchester ship Canal . I have two reports on them in here.
 
Perhaps Harwich was the first ever ferry port to feature in a song. Gilbert & Sullivan's operetta Iolanthe contains what is known as The Nightmare Song. Here is the relevant verse:

Then the bedclothes all all creep to the ground in a heap,
And you pick ’em all up in a tangle;
Next your pillow resigns and politely declines
To remain at its usual angle!
Well, you get some repose in the form of a doze,
With hot eyeballs and head ever aching,
But your slumbering teems with such horrible dreams
That you’d very much better be waking;
For you dream you are crossing the Channel,
And tossing about in a steamer from Harwich –
Which is something between a large bathing machine
And a very small second class carriage –

And you’re giving a treat (penny ice and cold meat)
To a party of friends and relations –
They’re a ravenous horde – and they all came on board
At Sloane Square and South Kensington Stations.
Great stuff. I share your interest as I have two yachts, one on the Deben at Martlesham Creek and one at Pin Mill on the Orwell. I am always sniffing around derelicts - afloat or ashore.
Many thanks for a great job.

Pedant mode: Harwich is in Essex, not Suffolk!
 
Have you heard of the concrete barges in Lymm? There is 5 visible after being left there after the war when metal was in high demand. Just to the right of the Thelwall viaduct and off the Manchester ship Canal . I have two reports on them in here.
I didn't know about those, have just found some photos on another post. I did walk from the Bridgewater Canal to the ferry across the ship canal once. Presumably that area. There are some concrete barges in amongst the PURTON HULKS — makes you wonder how they ever floated!
 
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